Forget your Cordovas, Candy Bars, Heel Clickers, Can-Cans, Nac-Nacs, No-Hander Landers or Indian Airs. Forget even your Bar Hops, Supermans or Hart Attacks. Because the sweetest looking freestyle trick on earth is still the good old fashionedwhip.
It’s a classic move that has stood the test of time.
There’s no fudging a good whip; no tweaking the bars mid-flight and making the thing look half good. A whip is a big, ballsy, committed move and should only be approached by those of you who have the riding skills and determination to match.
For Chad Reed, it’s just another day at the upside down office … but then Reed was whippin’ it before he learned to walk.
Reedy warns that a whip is by no means the easiest trick to bust. “Slowly building up to it is the only way to get a whip mastered,” says Reed. “Get used to moving your body around on the bike in the air and seeing how it responds first. Then youcan get more aggressive as you build your confidence. But always stay within your limits. Whips can produce nasty get-offs if you get it wrong!”

Image

From behind, you can see that I’m heading slightly right to left as I go up the take-off ramp. I’m using the small rut on the ramp for added traction as I lean the top of my body off the right side of the bike. Both my body and the bike are slightly leaned most of the way up the ramp, which is critical as it actually initiates the whip.

By the second shot, I’m putting a little
extra weight on the right-hand footpeg to help push the bike out into the whip. Generally, though, I keep my body nice and loose on the bike to let the bike flow into the move.

By the final shot, I’m starting to bring my upper body up on top of the bike more by pushing the bars down and to my right. When the whip is fully extended, having your body on top of the bike is important for control and to be able to bring the whip back for the landing.

PIC : 01
Before you try a whip, think about what sort of jump you’re dealing with. For a good whip, you need a smooth, mellow up-ramp with no bad ruts to spoil your take-off. To bust a big whip like this, you need a good 15 ? 18m gap to allow the time to bring the whip back again. A good, forgiving down-ramp is also important. I know this double jump on Ando’s practice track really well, and I’m in third gear here ready to hit it. I’ve already started to spot my line on the up-ramp.

PIC : 02
Doing a good whip is all about getting your take-off right. I’ve come up the ramp heading just slightly to the left and I’m leaning off the right hand side of the bike before I leave the ramp to help the bike whip out to the side. Make sure you drive all the way off the up-ramp, and keep your weight further forward than most other jumps. This will let the back-end do its thing and come back into line easier.

PIC : 03 - 04
Here, I’m letting the bike float out to the left of me as I come off the ramp, trying to keep my body really loose on the bike. I’m still leaning into the whip and putting a bit of weight on the inside (right side) footpeg to help whip it out. By Pic 04, you can see that I’m also throwing some opposite lock on the bike, as it’s comfortable to do this when you’re leaning off the side of the bike.
I’ve got my finger on the clutch but I try not to use it mid-air unless the front gets too high and I have to use the rear brake.
I’m still climbing here but I’m already looking at the down-ramp to spot my landing.

PIC : 05 - 06
I’m still letting the bike float up to the side in these shots, but you can see that by straightening my right arm and bending my left, I’m pulling myself more up on top of the bike as it gets flat. Doing this gives me more control over the bike and it’s the start of the weight transfer needed to bring the bike back into line. I’ve left both feet on the pegs for style points, but I’m still fully focused on the landing.

PIC : 07
After the bike is pancaked as much as I want it to, I shift my weight forward more on the bike. It looks like it’s more crossed-up here, but that’s what the bike will automatically do when you get your weight more on top of it and start to sit it up more.

PIC : 08
At this point, I’m getting my weight forward more aggressively to get the rear-end back into line quicker. I put a little extra weight on the bars and start to weight the outside peg more, to bring it back straight. I also like to use a little squirt of throttle right about here as the gyro effect of the engine when I rev it seems to help bring the bike back quicker and stands it up for the landing.

PIC : 09 - 10
The combination of more weight on the outside peg and my body being more upright on the bike has helped the rear-end come back around, and it’s also brought the front-end down for the landing. Notice how my weight is still well forward here to allow the back-end to move freely. A lot of guys will move back too quickly at this point, and that can stop the back-end coming around in time for the landing.

PIC : 11
For the average guy, you’d want to have the bike a lot straighter than I am here. I’ve been doing it for 12 years and that’s why I can comfortably run full lock on the bike so close to the landing. Making sure the front-end is well down also makes it possible for me to bring the bike back so late and still stick it safely.

PIC : 12 - 13
I’d rather bring the bike back later than sooner when landing a whip because I see a lot of guys bring it back too early and go down hard. When they bring it back early and the back-end swings inside the bike, it’s way harder to stick the landing. I’m getting back on the gas again here to drive out of the landing.
[Til baka]

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